Grand Manan Trails
Annual Newsletter #16
October 2008
TRAILS
UPDATE - Bob Stone We are at the end
of another hiking season. If the sales of Trails Booklets are any
indication, the numbers on the trails this year have been fewer than
the year before, because we have sold 365 booklets this year compared
to 500 last year. Campgrounds have also told us that they have had
fewer who were going to hike the entire coastal trail. Despite this,
there have still been many hikers who have enjoyed them, particularly
from Whale Cove to the Whistle, Southwest Head to Hay Point, and SW
Head to Pat‟s Cove. We have had a few signs disappear, and one occasion
when Hay Point was left in disarray after a party, but generally, the
trails have stayed in good condition. Jessie and Anne continued their
usual excellent job of clearing them in the spring, and the trails‟
volunteers did their utmost to maintain them. This was a real challenge
in July and August, because the greater then usual rainfall caused the
underbrush to grow at an unexpected rate.This is a year when we must acknowledge the fine contribution of three “friends” of the trails, who are no longer with us. They are Don Baldwin (you can read a tribute to him in this newsletter), Billy Daggett, and Stephen Harvey. Billy was instrumental, along with Don, in resurrecting the trails system in the early „90‟s. And even after he was not involved directly with the organizing group, he was always available for advice or assistance. As supervisor of the Anchorage Provincial Park, Stephen was of great assistance to us. It is because of him that we were able to have benches constructed by Junior Green in the Anchorage workshop, with the materials costing us little or nothing. When we were looking for signage similar to that used in the campground, Stephen made arrangements through Natural Resources for them to be made. He was always ready and willing to assist. It is because of the leadership and continuing interest of people such as Don, Billy, and Stephen, that we have the trails as they are now. CAUTIONARY TRAIL TALES - Joan Marshall. Based on a talk given at the Museum, June 2008.  If you're reading this I certainly don't need to “sell” you on the beauties and diversity of the island landscapes. But perhaps a short summary of the main habitats through which the trails meander (and sometimes plunge!) can underline the attractions that island trails offer and also allude to the inherent fragility of many of the micro-environments. From shoreline and intertidal zones that support special plants such as sea lavender, false arnica, lamb's quarters and harebells to interior meadows of ferns the diversity of ecosystems is astounding. Within a few hours hikes can take us through lovely bogs that harbour tiny sundew and deep purple pitcher plants, or along forest trails shaded by stands of birch, spruce and maple along which we might be lucky enough to find edible boletes or hear the ever present zee-zee-zee-zoo-zee of the black-throated green warbler. The richness of the diverse environments are home to large varieties of butterflies, birds, berries and flowers that are a constant source of enjoyment during all seasons from late April through to November. The trail system that rims the high banks along the back-of-the-island mainly passes through mixed forests of spruce, fir, grey birch and maple. Hikers will have learned to be wary of tenacious and prickly barbary (especially along the Eddy Light to Ashburton trail), and blackberry bushes along the Whale Cove trails. Fortunately our intrepid and conscientious volunteers and the Anne-Jessie team have managed to keep these trails well cleared so that even those brave enough to venture out in shorts don't return too scarred with bleeding scrapes and scratches.  Ann
Mitchell James and Judy Stone on Ross Island Trail
Most important is that we all take the daily time changes for tides into account when planning our routes. Whereas the trail guide books provide accurate estimates of how long the various trails need to complete, I have found that my outward journey invariably is at least fifty percent longer in time because of stopping to investigate new flowers or birdlife or just to take pictures. As well, “walking” along the beach generally is far more demanding in time and in physical effort than on the land trails. Contrary to appearances from any distance, the beaches are littered by enormous boulders covered in photogenic but slippery algae that require careful scrambling, clambering, and slow maneuvering to negotiate. On one such hike very early in my years of discovery of Grand Manan, I started at the Whistle and intended to walk to Indian Beach (in “only a half hour” I was advised) and then head up the trail to the cliff top and back to the Whistle. This was all estimated to take a couple of hours. In fact, when I eventually arrived at Indian Beach (after a strenuous 1.5 hours) I could not find the trail sign for going up the cliff face. I had no idea where it was. So I continued on past, and then walked back, all on the slippery, unstable slopes of the rock wall that forms Indian Beach. By this time I was getting worried about the tide coming in and not having as an option to return via the beach. It was quite terrifying at the time. Eventually I found, about 100 metres past the end of Indian Beach, a scree slope that I was able to scramble up with great trepidation, grabbing onto tree roots to hold me on the steep slope until I could reach secure forested ground about 40 metres above the water. By the time I got back to the Whistle over four hours had elapsed.  Jesse James clearing a trail on Ross
Island.Another time, again during my first summer on the island, I wanted to explore Ross Island with all its natural habitats (meadows, forests, bogs, shorelines) and carefully consulted the tide tables. But I did not have the book in the car with me when I actually headed out, and somehow, still a mystery to me ten years later, I reversed the times in my mind. The result was that when I saw a young couple hurrying off the island at first I was puzzled. Then “ a penny dropped”, and I ran after them. Reaching the Thoroughfare I was dismayed to see it in full flood, with no possibility of crossing. Fortunately, I vaguely recalled hearing someone tell me about the possibility to get off the island via one of the lobster pounds. Eventually, after a rather hazardous scouting expedition, I did manage to make my way to the “main island”, but not without bruised knees not to mention my bruised ego! For future reference however, the emergency exit should be via the Benson's pound (to the northeast) rather than the closer one. There is quite a safe (if circuitous) route that way. One of the less welcome encounters along the trails are the increasingly destructive impacts of ATVs which are especially apparent in the early spring and summer when the trails are still wet. Parts of the interior are so destroyed that the ATVs are making new trails, and new beds of mud and water. In Adirondak Park (in New York State) there are rules about springtime use of trail bikes and hiking by large groups in order to minimize such destruction. Another danger that is growing in its potential to affect the trail network is development and the buying of large tracts of lan  d by summer
residents. While the opening of the Hole-in-the-Wall Park marked the
first incursion of changing uses that disrupted the traditional trail
system, there are many more that have begun to pose threats to the long
term sustainability of hiking on Grand Manan. Despite promises by the
developer who bought the large acreage off the Whistle Road and has it
subdivided for housing lots to ensure the trail is not interrupted,
those who have used that section of the trail know that the habitat is
effectively destroyed in that area. The issues involved in trying to
protect the trail system are critical for tourism and will require both
conciliatory negotiators and community spirit to be successful in
protecting these special environments and access to them. Hopefully our
love for the island and its diverse natural habitats will energize and
contribute to greater islander appreciation of this unique resource
that is in fact its heritage.SWALLOWTAIL KEEPERS SOCIETY - Martha Eaton In early April, 2008, a new community group was formed as a result of concerns raised when the Village of Grand Manan entertained the idea of put-ting the Swallowtail keeper's house and land up for sale. Because of the possible loss of this island icon as a public building, and the loss of walking access to the lighthouse itself, an online survey was initiated and a public meeting was held in order to inform islanders and visitors of the situation. Speakers came from off the island and included two people who had been involved in similar groups in Campobello and Green Point Light.  From
Linda L’Aventure’s collection of old postcards. The postmark on the
back reads “Seal Cove, 1910”. The photographer, or printer (in
Germany), obviously decided that the present lighthouse was not
artistic enough and re-interpreted it in brick.
The new group soon established a steering committee, adopted the name “Swallowtail Keepers Society”, and met several times to iron out details of procuring non-profit and charitable status, acquiring a lawyer and an accountant, and setting up committees to set goals and plan activities. The first major activity took place on Saturday, April 26, a perfect day to clean up in and around the lighthouse keeper's house at Swallowtail. The clean-up drew approximately thirty-five people who spent much of the day clearing out debris from the house and boathouse at the light, as well as the Ross Island boathouse and well-house at the top of the steps. Others collected litter around the lighthouse grounds. Armed with trash bags, gloves, and wheelbarrows, volun-teers began arriving at 9 am and went straight to work. Folks from three to seventy-three helped in the monumental effort. Free barbecued hot dogs and a delicious pasta salad were served at lunchtime. Workers formed a human chain to get the bags and larger pieces of trash up the 54 steps to several waiting pickup trucks. On Canada Day 2008, about thirty-five hardy souls walked through thick fog to attend the flag-raising ceremony at Swallowtail Light station. For the first time in many years, the Maple Leaf was raised near the keeper's house by Cpl. Andy Cook of the local RCMP detachment. The group of onlookers joined in singing O Canada as the flag was raised using the new flag pole which the Swallowtail Keepers Society had erected prior to the ceremony. The flag adds a spot of colour to welcome residents and visitors as they approach Grand Manan on the ferry. As of September, the Swallowtail Keeper's Society is working toward an agreement with the Village so as to get a lease to the keeper's house, and continue to care for the property. Any interested full or part-time island residents are invited to join the group. Financial contributions to the project can be directed to the Village Office or the Whale Research Station, attention “Lighthouse Project”. For further information, please phone Laurie Murison at 662-8316. top TRIBUTE TO DON BALDWIN - Ann Chudleigh  It is with sadness that we report the death of Don Baldwin on Decemer 22, 2007. “He was the Grand Manan trails system and all that it has become today,” observed Maude Hunter. After a career in the Ornithology Department of the Royal Ontario Museum and at Upper Canada College as a science teacher and founder of the Outdoor Education Program, Don retired in 1990 and moved to Grand Manan. Don and his wife, Maureen, and their children Mark and Adam had been camping on Grand Manan since 1968 on land they bought on the waterfront south of Seal Cove. There Don and Maureen opened a B & B and began running Baldwin Nature Tours, one of the first companies to promote ecotourism. The Grand Manan Trails Committee was launched in the fall of 1990 at a meeting at the Water‟s Edge Restaurant owned by Phil Waters, then Chair of the Tourism Association. In attendance were Don and Maureen, Eric Had-ley, Maude Hunter, Billy Daggett and Phil Waters. The trails group was formed as a sub-committee of the Tourism Association but with separate finances. Many of the old trails were in poor shape and could only be found with diffi-culty and the Tourism Association spent a lot of time worrying about trail problems. So Don stepped into the breach and decided to concentrate on trails. He wanted to make a contribution to island tourism and decided to devote his knowledge, energy and outdoor expertise to building an extensive, natural trails system. Today there are approximately 70 km of trails on the islands. Don took the lead and over the years filled at least 20 functions relating to trails: clearing old trails and developing new ones; making driftwood signs and painting markers; writing and editing trail guides; maintaining file cards on donors; keeping the books and doing the banking and public relations; setting policy; coordinating the design and production of trail crests, and later, pins as sources of revenue; organizing work crews and writing grant applications; liaising with the Tourism Association; making presentations to the Rotarians and Village Council; maintaining the tools inventory and writing trail maintenance guidelines. With Don's organizing style and diplomatic personality, he was able to recruit many others to the cause - both islanders and tourists alike. Early on Don realized he needed help and the Friends of Grand Manan Trails was formed in 1992. To close, I want to quote Maude Hunter again, “Don came and went to work; he had the time and the knowledge, he made it happen. He was a leader and people were willing to follow him.” The result, carried on over the years by many willing contributors with their tie, energy and financial donations, is a splendid, natural trails system which will continue to be enjoyed by islanders and visitors for years to come. THE TRAILS DINNER On October 17, The Inn at Whale Cove was, as always, the scene of the annual Friends of Grand Manan Trails Dinner. Laura Buckley and her staff generously donate their time, talents, and the gourmet meal itself, in support of the group of volunteer adopters, who take responsibility for maintaining the trail system. The diners were treated to a superb repast, a brief report from Bob Stone on summer activities, and a DVD slideshow featuring the trails on Ross and White Head islands. For the second time, the number of requests for a reservation exceeded the capacity of the Inn;s seating facilities and the volunteer staff, Laura, Cecilia Bowden, Fredonna Dean, Dianne Jaillet, Janna Gatta, Joanne Ingallsm Ann James and Linda L'Aventure had to eat in the kitchen. Despite this indignity, Fredonna , Joanne, and Janna have become enthusiastic trail adopters. Robert and Judy Stone, Carmen and
Pete Roberts, Jesse and Ann James, Cecilia Bowden, Frances Hodge TRAIL
ADOPTERS: 2008 The
Hole in the Wall in the early 1900’s. Overall trails maintenance-
Anne Mitchell and Jessie James
The following people have
given a donation
to the Trails in 2008
FRIENDS OF GRAND MANAN TRAILS.
If you wish to be included on the mailing list, or comment on trail conditions, observations (Ex: natural history, cultural, aesthetic, etc.) or suggestions to improve the trails, please write to: FRIENDS OF GRAND
MANAN TRAILS
topc/o Bob Stone 51 Red Point Road, Grand Manan, NB E5G 4J1 rstone@nb.sympatico.ca or Grand Manan Tourism Association 1141 Route 776, Grand Manan, NB E5G 4E9 Phone: 506-662-3442 (1-888-525-1655) gmtouris@nbnet.nb.ca Web: www.grandmananNB.com THE GRAND MANAN TRAILS PIN  The idea that we
should identify ourselves with a distinctive logo originated with one
of the Island’s scout leaders in 1993. When contacted, long time
“Friend” O. K. Schenk promptly designed a sew-on crest which was later
transformed into a lapel pin. Mr. Schenk’s beautiful watercolors are
well known to Islanders and are included in some of our Island Museum’s
displays.The design depicts “a hard white shape symbolizing the Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis) which is common during the summer, and always a source of pleasure”. The background colour is a dark forest green and the white flower-center (or berries) a bright red. First offered for sale in 1994 as a crest and now as a pin, they have become our principal fund raising activity. They are sold for $5.00 each, without profit to the sellers, by a number of GMTA members. They are available at the following places: Island Arts, Marathon Inn, Shorecrest Lodge, Whale Cove Cottages, Grand Manan Museum, Harrington Cove Cottages. Thanks to all of them. |
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Volunteer “Trail
Adopters” look after specific trails,
monitoring work needed and carrying out light maintenance. The
commitment of time is not onerous. All tools and materials can be
supplied from our inventory and 90% of the work done simply involves a
pair of hand clippers to combat intrusive growth. Keeping us informed
on current trail conditions is probably the main contribution. Let us
know if you would be interested in helping out.